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Having fun, writing about the stuff I like

Fat Fingers and Black Swans

Oscar Foulkes May 7, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

It seems that wine isn’t the only field that casts a wider net in search of nomenclature. Yesterday’s cataclysmic sell-off on Wall Street saw major indexes dropping five percentage points in a matter of minutes. What triggered the panic- (or computer-driven) selling has not yet been conclusively established.

One of the causes that’s been mooted is that of a fat-fingered trader. No-one is suggesting that American obesity has achieved new heights (or is that girths?); merely that someone punched the wrong keys when placing a sell order. I can understand this happening to someone using their Blackberry to make an online trade while on the move, but the buttons on a computer keyboard require rather fat fingers.

Whatever the causes, it certainly counted as a Black Swan event. This term, brought into popular use by Nassim Nicholas Taleb, is used to describe an event that is “outside the realm of regular expectations” and which furthermore has an “extreme impact”. Part of his trading strategy involves buying low-cost options that fall outside normal trading ranges. If the market behaves itself he slowly bleeds capital, as these options expire worthless. However, major moves – such as the one that happened at around 2.47 pm (New York time) yesterday – are his bread and butter. His low-cost, out-of-the-money options suddenly explode in value.

That’s when he makes his money. Assuming his fingers do the right thing, of course!

A Sandwich while Working

Oscar Foulkes April 30, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

Grilled fig, goat's cheese and Black Forest ham on homebaked sourdough bread

This is what happens when you work adjacent to an open-plan kitchen, and that lunchtime feeling begins to take hold. I baked the sourdough bread earlier today; the figs and goat’s cheese were about to become fridge relics. The first slice was a hasty cheese and ham only, but I found the combination to be a bit salty. The mild sweetness of the fig was the perfect antidote to the saltiness. Yum!

The Teenaged Bookie

Oscar Foulkes April 27, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

1984 was the year that I matriculated. It’s also the title of George Orwell’s book that was part of our English curriculum somewhere along the line. And it was the year that the South African runner Zola Budd took part in the Los Angeles Olympic Games.

Officially, of course, she represented Great Britain, on the basis of having a British grandfather. At that time South Africans were sanctioned from most international sport, which meant that the official bodies refused to recognise her world record time for the women’s 5000m. She had achieved this earlier in 1984 – at the age of 17 – and she ran barefoot, so she was something of a sensation.

I saw a money-making opportunity in her Olympics participation; specifically in the form of taking bets from my fellow pupils. I may have given just a little consideration to the likelihood that I was not going to be running a balanced ‘book’, but I did it anyway. Bets were going to be laid on one runner only. It was the school against me.

So, I priced up the field and for the days leading up to the event just about every teacher allowed me a couple of minutes at the start of class to chalk my odds on the board and take bets. The boys couldn’t get enough of Zola, at odds that couldn’t have been generous. I was becoming nervously aware of the extent of my loss should Zola even finish in the medals.

I’ll never forget my physical state as I sat, in the middle of the night, listening to the live radio commentary. My heart felt as if it was in danger of thumping its way right out of my chest. My mouth was dry and my hands were shaking, not helped by the fact that Zola was in the lead for much of the race. It was a seminal broadcasting moment in my life. Others may talk of listening to radio casts of the first moon landing, or the Rumble in the Jungle. I, aged 17, was listening to Zola Budd in the Women’s 3000m finals of the Olympic Games.

Whatever the cause, Zola couldn’t maintain the pace. She eventually faded, in the process saving me from teenaged financial ruin. Only one person bet on the eventual winner, Maricica Puică.

Whether my teachers were caught up in the excitement of Zola’s Olympics, just bemused, or genuinely supportive of my entrepreneurial activity, I don’t know, but I’ve always admired my alma mater for the various ways in which independent thinking – and action – were encouraged. It wasn’t much like 1984 at all.

In a Virtual World, Humanity is Real

Oscar Foulkes April 25, 2010 My Little Black Book, Uncategorized, Web Tools No comments

We have been taught to distrust almost every aspect of online interaction. The majority of the email we receive is spam; unsolicited and potentially costly. Credit card fraud – we are told – is rife. And, don’t even start on chat rooms, which may be virtual but can lead to danger in real life. To quote a Bruce Springsteen lyric, it’s like “a part of town where when you hit a red light you don’t stop”.

For good reason, and we’re not about to drop our guard.

However, it’s not all bad. I have encountered some extraordinarily useful people online, who have generously dispensed with professional assistance that would have cost me thousands had I commissioned it. I am thinking, particularly, of the people who frequent the support forum for the Thesis theme (WordPress template) I used to build this website. I elected to use the same theme for TheSlingshot.biz, but needed some assistance with the technical side of getting it to look the way I wanted. Every time I posted a query there was an answer within 12 hours, which meant that I, as a non-techie, could build my own website. There are seriously switched-on people who give away hundreds of lines of code every day without payment. It’s most humbling to be on the receiving end of this generosity.

Humanity, generally speaking, is alive and kicking.

Vaudeville’s May Menu

Oscar Foulkes April 24, 2010 Tags: Restaurants 4 comments
  • Namibian free-range sirloin steak with mustard mash, greens and a mushroom & green peppercorn sauce

  • Oven-baked fish with lemony hollandaise, crispy potato wedges and greens

  • Lightly-spiced roasted vegetables with wild rice pilaf and tomato relish

  • Lemon-infused poached pears on a cinnamon crumble, with vanilla bean crème anglaise & a crisp brandy snap shard

  • Chocolate and orange ganache tart with berry coulis

We have an delicious new line-up for the new Vaudeville menu, which runs until the end of May.

Based upon the track record to date, the overwhelming favourite is going to be the meat option. We really can’t blame diners for following the herd on this one. Namibian free-range beef is one of the prize ingredients used in the Dish kitchen. Not only is it fabulously flavourful, but it is also tender and juicy. From a health and environmental perspective, it’s good to know that the antibiotic and hormone-free cattle are free to roam the endless Namibian plains as they forage for grass. Since discovering Namibian free-range we haven’t been able to enjoy any other beef quite the way we used to!

We serve the sirloin steaks with a hearty mushroom and green peppercorn sauce, mustard mash and greens. While the meat is served medium to medium-rare we are happy to also do rare or well-done.

The fish is served with lemony hollandaise, which is one of my favourite accompaniments for fish. The plate also has crispy potato wedges and greens. Yummy!

The vegetarian dish has, once again, received special attention. We add toasted almonds, diced dried apricots and chopped parsley to the rice. To this we add lightly-spiced roasted vegetables and round it all off with an intense tomato relish.

The popular poached pears remain on the menu, and the chocolate slot is taken up by a totally decadent chocolate and orange ganache tart.

A Spicy Plate of Chicken Fried Rice

Oscar Foulkes April 21, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

The popularity of cooking or food shows on television is perhaps one of the modern world’s surprise successes. Granted, there may be a schoolboyish fascination with Nigella Lawson’s cleavage (especially when accompanied by purring commentary about whipping cream to soft peaks). And, one watches Gordon Ramsay knowing that some proper culinary knowledge will be imparted in the midst of his obscenity-seasoned language and verbal shredding of hapless minions. Even Rick Stein’s quiet and restrained presentation has its place.

However, for all our enjoyment in watching proper chefs cooking, there is absolutely no voyeuristic pleasure in watching people eat on the telly. We’d rather watch the goriest bits of Grey’s Anatomy than see food being masticated. You could shake a martini at any number of actors who’ve consumed beverages on screen, but TV dinners are best kept on viewers’ laps.

Voyeurism and exhibitionism (V&E) are two heads of the same beast. Some people (myself included) switch between the two, but the world appears to have more voyeurs than exhibitionists. These pursuits are most regularly associated with something a bit risqué, like displays of extreme amounts of bare flesh, or unexpected glimpses of someone else’s naughty bits. But in the world of V&E, the crème de la crème, the Beluga, the platinum card; is real live public sex. It’s the crack without the cocaine, the cash without Johnny, the rattle without the snake. Apart from the accidents that can result from voyeuristic distraction (like falling out of an upstairs window while trying to get a better view), one is well removed from physical danger (especially of the STD variety), and strictly speaking not committing an act of infidelity.

Contrary to the scenario I’ve sketched, I’m not an aficionado of public sex. By its very nature (like unicorns and four-leafed clovers) it’s one of those things that doesn’t come around very often. And not every sighting carries the same level of excitement. Rounding a corner, one’s headlights catching a bare leg akimbo against a car window, followed briefly by startled eyes that rapidly dip out of view, grades high on humour but low on titillation.

What I’m building up to is my only ‘proper’ experience. It happened as I was having lunch at the open-air restaurant of a Thai resort hotel. The restaurant is perched above a curved beach, equivalent to an area about 50 metres off-shore. People were wading a long way in, because the water was no more than chest height. At first there was nothing suspicious about the couple I noticed. He had his back to the beach while they appeared to be doing nothing more than hugging and kissing as they were standing in the water. Sure, they did seem to be moving a bit more than necessary, but it wasn’t until her knee came out of the water that the situation was confirmed (and the languid physical movements intensified). For the next half an hour they moved around a larger area – even seeking shelter in the lee of a moored (empty) fishing boat – before, finally, making their way back to the beach, apparently sated.

For my part, I thoroughly enjoyed my Singha beer and chicken fried rice, even if the seasoning was somewhat unusual.

A Risky Day at the Races

Oscar Foulkes April 8, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

If Cape Town couturier Susan Hansen ever gets around to writing her memoirs, she may single out my rushed visit on 25 January 1997 as one of the most unusual of her professional career.

In those days the J&B Met was a huge social occasion, but the hospitality side of things still had a lot more room for growth. For example, the picnics in the members’ car park were – quite literally – served out of car boots. Shade from the summer sun was limited to a few beach umbrellas.

Given this background, I may have played a role in pioneering the way things are done now. I arranged several adjacent picnic sites, which I enclosed with picket fencing, and then covered with a free-standing marquee, much to the consternation of the club management. This became my own hospitality area, for which I sold tickets to an extended circle of friends and acquaintances. It was such a good day at the races that I received pre-Met calls for years after I decided it was all too much work.

On the day in question I went through to Kenilworth early in the morning to set everything up. However, I was aware of having left a rather emotional Andrea at home, bereft at not having anything to wear to the races. So, on my way home (on a very tight timeline) I popped into Susan Hansen’s shop in Claremont.

Committing a series of acts that could very easily have become matrimonial suicide, I not only selected an outfit, but also gave instructions for its quite extensive alteration – without the intended wearer being present!

Susan must have thought I was mad, but cheerfully got on with the rush tailoring.

Not only was the outfit loved … and it fitted perfectly. Given my successful gamble I may have been tempted to think my luck was in that day, but I cheered London News home without even one cent at risk.

The Ghosts of Meals Past

Oscar Foulkes April 1, 2010 Tags: Restaurants 7 comments

I’ve been mulling my Vaudeville kitchen experiences for quite a while, trying to reach a point of semi-objectively drawing some conclusions.

During ‘service’, kitchens can be very stressful places. There’s enough on one’s mind getting the food on the menu out, without also having to deal with last-minute likes, dislikes, intolerances or allergies. When there are 300 people in the house I can’t guarantee that I’ll be entirely gracious about re-making a risotto without garlic (for one person). Or, not jeer about the vegetarians who request ice cream for dessert, instead of chocolate torte, because they don’t eat eggs (in case you didn’t know, ice cream contains eggs).

It’s not that I don’t want people to have a good experience, but sending out 300 main courses in 15 to 20 minutes does limit the amount of diversity one can offer on-the-fly.

There is also the issue of how much meat people want to eat. A vegetarian will tell you they’re vegetarian, which enables one to plan accordingly. I eat meat, but I’m not a real meat-eater; I’m more than satisfied with 200g of red meat (or fish for that matter). However, a meat-eater feels cheated with a piece of meat that size. The problem is this – you don’t know that person is a meat-eater until they complain afterwards about how little food they’ve been served.

More than anything, though, food is at the coalface of human interaction. It can represent deeply-held religious beliefs, or be the repository of memories, both happy and traumatic. Our food likes and dislikes are subjective on the most intimate of levels.

All of which ensures that rationality is not necessarily present when people express their dissatisfaction. Judgements or condemnations fly thick and fast, seldom with any reference to a tangible issue (for example, pointing out that the hollandaise has split). Food is sent back to the kitchen with nothing more than a “terrible”. Well, thank you, but could you please point out what exactly was not to your taste?

I’m not saying that we’re always perfect in every respect (I can think of one night in particular when the wheels came off really, really badly). As much as we in the kitchen need to allow room for our culinary fallibility, we would prefer diners to acknowledge – first and foremost – that they’re expressing their own taste, which is not nearly as empirical a judgement as people believe.

Eventually, what helped the penny to drop on my understanding of the Vaudeville experience has been something that happens on the street outside our back door.

You see, while Vaudeville’s front door is on the two-way Mechau street, the kitchen door is on the very much narrower, one-way, Prestwich street. Across the road is the entrance to the parking garage of the office building above. My view (which is only my subjective thought on the matter, and not based in any technical expertise) is that the design of the entrance did not take into account the narrowness of the street. Hence, it makes for a very tight turn. Compact vehicles seem to manage without any problems, but SUVs and luxury German sedans need the full width of the street to cope with the turn.

I will admit that once, for about five minutes, I was parked (legitimately, in my view) directly opposite the parking entrance. Unfortunately, one of those luxury German sedans was trying to get into the parking, and couldn’t. The driver – a man – instantly became very abusive.

What has happened since then is that they (i.e. those who inhabit the office block and use the parking) have taken to putting traffic cones into the demarcated loading zone, which means that we no longer have the use of a public resource. Because it gets in the way of a luxury vehicle’s turning circle.

I can see a battle being waged over this territory, and it’s one no less emotional than the response of a diner to a dish that isn’t quite the way he/she likes it. In the case of the loading zone the territory is tangible. When it comes to food one is in ethereal, emotional space, where rationality is difficult.

While I’m at it, I need to admit that I have probably not been my own model diner for most of my life. I’m sure there are times that restaurateurs were suppressing a very strong desire to throw me out onto the street by the scruff of my neck. I can’t promise that I’ll never again send food back, but if I do, I’ll be sure to stick to tangible issues rather than gratuitous judgements.

My kitchen experiences do have a lot to do with other people’s ‘stuff’, but I suspect that what’s really happening is that I’m getting introduced to ghosts of meals past. Over and over again.

OK, Universe, I admit it, there are times that I have been insufferably judgemental and arrogant. I’ve learnt my lesson. Now, please will you make sure that wheat intolerant, garlic allergic vegans, who don’t eat mange tout or tomatoes, let us know when making the booking that they require some special attention?

I don’t have any stats on ‘special needs’ diners, but here are some numbers I can share. For every group of 90, the breakdown of main course orders will be based upon the ratio of 60 meat: 20 fish: 10 vegetarian. On certain nights there may be a bias towards meat or fish, but seldom towards vegetarian. The ‘time-budget’ for assembling each plate is 15 seconds (i.e. plating the starch, the veg, the fish/meat, sauce and garnish).

Click here for the background to the June menu, or here for some niche diets that would put the kitchen under more than just a little pressure.

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A Step Back into the Future

Oscar Foulkes March 28, 2010 Uncategorized 2 comments

It occurred to me yesterday, as I was tucking into a particularly delicious Chicken Breyani at the Solms-Delta Oesfees, that I could at that moment have been at Taste of Cape Town. There I would have had the ‘opportunity’ of eating top chefs’ prized creations; food largely influenced by current global trends, styled to within an inch of its life.

The guests would almost all be white, unlike the mixed audience at Solms-Delta, which included several hundred farm workers (and their families) from the Franschhoek valley. I definitely wouldn’t have needed to explain to my kids, as I did upon entering the festival area, that they shouldn’t expect the bands to be playing ‘popular’ music.

I explained to them that the owner, neuroscientist Mark Solms, has committed the operation to keeping Cape cultural heritage alive, as well as empowering his workers by enabling them to participate in the success of the business. The Oesfees (harvest festival) is inclusive, in the sense that free tickets – including food and beverage tokens – are given to a large number of farm workers from surrounding farms. As if this wasn’t already unusual enough, the core of the festival is a line-up of traditional music featuring the distinctive sounds of the largely Coloured musicians.

Featuring in the line-up were three different groups of Solms-Delta farm workers and their families: the Delta Langbroek (long pants, which are generally worn by older people) band, the Delta Soetstemme (sweet voices) and the Delta Bluestars. In fairness, they sounded somewhat like a school variety concert, but their inclusion says a lot for the Solms’ commitment to creating opportunities for different life experiences amongst a group of people who have historically had extremely limited life expectations.

Unfortunately I couldn’t stay for the star attractions – Robbie Jansen and Emo Adams – but I was charmed by Tannie Grietjie, who at 85 has more ‘life’ than most teenagers.

The event also illustrates how modern consumers insist on having their experiences packaged in a predictable and familiar fashion. The Solms-Delta Oesfees consciously walks its own path, which makes it a refreshing – and very necessary – event on the annual winelands calendar.

Professor Mark Solms is operating outside the profession for which he trained, but I’m sure that this festival will go a long way towards influencing the way that wine people’s neurons fire (which is really just a long and contrived way of saying that the Oesfees will change the way people think).

Wine & Prejudice

Oscar Foulkes March 17, 2010 Wines No comments

I find South African sauvignon blanc a most interesting case study, on a number of different levels.

When I first entered the wine industry, in 1993, winemakers were obsessive – with a capital O – about making fabulous sauvignon. If one is attempting to do something really well obsessive is good; no complaints about that.

The part I didn’t understand was why they were using New Zealand as the benchmark. The growing conditions are quite different, which means that one cannot possibly make wine that tastes the same.

In those days sauvignon was praised for its primary fruit character; barring wines from Constantia, the recommendation was to drink them before the next vintage was released.

To a large extent that remains valid today, but two further changes occurred. Firstly, sauvignon became widely planted in places like Elim, Elgin, Noordhoek and other ‘cool-climate’ regions. Secondly, more and more sauvignon gets bottled under screwcap.

What effect does this have? Cooler regions result in both higher levels of natural acidity and greater fruit intensity as a result of longer ‘hang time’ (acidity is one of the key components that ensures successful bottle ageing). And, screwcaps not only remove any risk of cork taint, but the anaerobic conditions slow down the wine’s evolution.

Iona Sauvignon Blanc sometimes comes to us with cork and sometimes with screwcap. The 2008 under screwcap is still very nice, but the cork example has been on its way out since late last year. By the same token, the 2009 Iona under screwcap was somewhat abrasive in its exuberant freshness, but is now settling down into a jolly nice drink.

By contrast, Cape Point Vineyards (CPV) has never been released under screwcap. As far as CPV is concerned, the biggest coup of all time must be Woolworths (the South African cousin of Marks & Spencer) convincing them to supply a reserve sauvignon. I’d have to believe that this was all about Woolies’ Allan Mullins putting his famous people skills to work. Keeping Allan happy means that they have to disappoint dozens of other customers around the world, because they really don’t produce very much at all.

We bought a few bottles of the 2008 Woolworths CPV sauvignon soon after release. I was initially a little disappointed, but thought that a bit more maturity would count in the wine’s favour and so hid the bottles away for future consumption. Over the last two days I’ve made my way through one of these bottles, and am delighted with the result.

In the early 90s, when all this sauvignon obsession was going on, Marlborough and Sancerre were icons. I believe there’s no doubt that South African sauvignon has joined them in producing iconic sauvignon.

I have been moved – largely as a result of personal experience, it must be said – into the camp that would rather drink a ‘quality’ sauvignon at two years than immediately upon release, as one used to (especially if it’s under screwcap).

Apart from the wine geek stuff, the South African sauvignon blanc case study proves that prejudice and fixed opinions can be very limiting.