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Having fun, writing about the stuff I like

Vintage 2000, Ten Years Later

Oscar Foulkes March 11, 2010 Wines No comments

The world has changed a lot since the charismatic André Simon founded the International Wine & Food Society in 1933. Almost everything that we take for granted, as far as gastronomy is concerned, didn’t exist. There weren’t celebrity chefs, households generally existed on the basis of one comprehensive cookbook, and the range of produce available was extremely limited. Not only that, but the globalisation of national cuisines hadn’t happened. Just think, Britain had to wait another two decades for Elizabeth David to bring Mediterranean Food into ordinary people’s homes!

Apart from the undeveloped state of British ‘cuisine’ there was also the serious issue of bleak economic times and impending war. Those wanting access to epicurean experiences needed to form their own Society, but chasing butter at the apparent expense of guns didn’t make them popular.

These days almost any wine or food experience is available to anyone with a functioning bowel and valid credit card. The imperative for a wine and food society is different to what it used to be.

I don’t think I’m alone in having questioned my membership of the International Wine & Food Society (IWFS). However, sufficient ‘good’ bottles have been shared with fellow members who also happen to be friends that the dips have been overlooked.

Last night’s IWFS tasting of ten wines from the 2000 vintage was one of the very good reasons why I stick around. It’s not that I haven’t had the opportunity of drinking wines as good (or better) than this. The thing is, if those ten wines had been in my possession they would never have lasted ten years. So, the IWFS is like a unit trust, or mutual fund, for pleasure. Every year the Society buys wines which it cellars until an appropriate opportunity arises. For people who regard rainy days as a reason to drink red wine, rather than a motivator for thrift, it’s a wonderful arrangement.

While I was disappointed by several of the wines, having the opportunity of having ten ten-year-old wines was fantastic.

My favourite wine could have been Champagne le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, a gorgeously rich wine, with a fine acidic backbone. By comparison with non-vintage Moët it’s a bargain at around R400.

A pair of Burgundies, from Armand Rousseau and Domaine Jacques Prieur, followed the Champagne. I thought they were quite flat, flabby and unexciting, even going so far as to suggest that none of those praising them would have done so if the labels had been unknown.

By comparison, a pair of Piedmontese wines spearheaded by Aldo Conterno’s Granbussia Barolo, were bustling with fruit, dashing acidity and quite stern tannins. The Barolo was my other choice for wine of the night.

Then followed two clarets – Duhart Milon and Clos du Marquis – both of which suffered (in my opinion only, it must be said) from really hard wood tannins that may never get any softer. I suggested it would be nice to re-taste the wines ten years hence, and immediately was presented with a number of invitations to do exactly that. Sometimes dissension can be fruitful.

The Domaine du Tich from Sainte Croix-du-Mont showed what good value many botrytis wines from South Africa are. I thought was it a bit sulphurous, lacking in concentration and altogether quite one-dimensional. When drinking Sauternes-style wines I want to have the intense dried apricot and citrus peel flavours along with racy acidity, but this wine didn’t deliver.

The vintage 2000 tasting closed with Warre’s Vintage, which did everything it was supposed to.

In general, when it comes to special bottles, it remains my view that there’s “no time like the present” (click here to read my reasoning for that, which incidentally also relates to a Champagne from le Mesnil and an IWFS function). However, I’m pleased that these bottles were locked away for all those years, awaiting one evening of indulgence.

My favourite kitchen tool

Oscar Foulkes March 8, 2010 My Little Black Book No comments

Some men have tool sheds; I have a kitchen. Ok, so it isn’t my kitchen only, and it isn’t a “man room” in the sense that I can lock myself away from the world, but it’s a fantastic place to play with food. Often this is done with other members of the family, which is a great shared activity. Of course, whatever has been created has to be eaten, which is the greatest pleasure of all!

My current favourite ‘tool’ is this cast iron skillet griddle pan from Le Creuset (click here to check it out on Amazon).

Why do I love it? Well, firstly, I just love the way the food sizzles while in the pan. Whenever food is sizzling at exactly this pitch you know that the exterior is caramelising perfectly, which is how you get the best flavours. When cooking chicken breast fillets, steaks or chops, I prefer to brown them in the pan first, and then move it into the oven to cook through. I haven’t cooked fish in it yet, but expect it to work just as well. As you can see, the skillet is 100% cast iron, so there’s no problem putting it into a hot oven.

The way to use it is to marinade whatever you’re cooking, including some oil in the marinade. Then put the pan onto the hottest flame you have. When the pan is hot, pop the meat into the pan. After 10 seconds shift it just a little so that it doesn’t stick. When it’s nicely coloured turn it over.

Quick and easy, really tasty … what more could one possibly want?

Mulligans: the born again golf shots

Oscar Foulkes March 6, 2010 Uncategorized No comments

Most golfers will jump at any excuse to get out on the course. Charity days, for example, are quite useful – one is supporting a good cause, after all. Topping the hierarchy, though, is the corporate or sponsored day. This one, dear readers, is the crème de la crème of golf invitations. Firstly, they qualify as work. Secondly, they generally take place on a weekday. Finally, they are often held at courses that are either expensive or difficult to get onto, and the largesse extends to ‘goodie bags’.

The obligatory branded golf shirt is a necessary evil. However, one of the companies whose day I’ve been invited to several times selects top of the range gear and then brands it so discreetly that you can wear it for the rest of the year. Most considerate, wouldn’t you say?

I’ve received the expected range of golfing paraphernalia (balls, tees, pencils, pitch repair fork etc), as well as caps, shirts and kit bags. But the most unusual item I’ve ever received in a goodie bag – by a considerable distance – was a copy of the New Testament and Psalms.

I realise that I am displaying a great deal of self-centred greed in expressing dismay at this gift, but what use could a Bible possibly be in assisting me to get around a golf course in the minimum number of strokes? The Word of God may well be useful in keeping sinners on the straight and narrow, but golf balls?

Divine intervention in golf was famously invoked by Lee Trevino when he walked out onto a course during an electric storm waving a one-iron above his head, safe from a lighting strike, he said, because “not even God can hit a one-iron”.

The efficacy of handing out Bibles in the hope of achieving religious conversions is limited; I’ve heard it said that going to church no more makes one a Christian than standing in a garage makes one a motor car. Similarly, swinging a Callaway driver at a Nike golf ball, even on the revered links of St Andrews or Carnoustie, does not necessarily make one a golfer.

A golfer plays his sport bound by a long tradition of ethics and conventions, many of which are largely self-monitored. If playing the game by a set of values is what makes the golfer, then perhaps religion is not that far removed from the coda of golf.

Take, for example, the intensity of feeling around those conventions, such as holding up play, cheating, or Mulligans. These can provoke responses as potent as religious debates about ‘moral’ issues such as homosexuality or sex before marriage. To the purist, a Mulligan – whereby a dud shot is written off as if it had not happened, and a fresh one is taken – falls outside the spirit of golf.

My doubt that the New Testament could be of any assistance on a golf course was dissolved by John, chapter three, when Jesus says “no-one can see the kingdom of God unless he is born again”. What is this, I ask you, other than an instruction to take another ball out of your bag and tee it up so that you can have another go?

So, there you have it, Mulligans are sanctioned by Scripture. If it goes on like this, golf apparel will become known as vestments. Once it reaches that stage, golf can be played with a clear conscience whenever the mood arises.


The Lynchpin of a Wine Bargain

Oscar Foulkes February 25, 2010 Wines No comments

There are few marketing exercises that have given me as much pleasure as launching Cloof’s Bordeaux-style blend Lynchpin to the British media … at a chateau in Bordeaux! Not only was the wine offered en primeur (a la Bordeaux), but I also put together a mini-conference entitled “Is the New World killing Bordeax” AND I got Bordeaux producers to participate (read about the event in more detail here). Not exactly the Procter & Gamble or Unilever approach to marketing.

Over the years I’ve drunk more than my fair share of 2005 Lynchpin (so named because of the “critically important” role played in the blend by Cabernet Franc). I see no reason to stop now; especially after the bottle I opened two nights ago, which was my first Lynchpin in about two months.

Clearly, I’m not an impartial commentator when it comes to Lynchpin. I worked with winemaker Christopher van Dieren in putting together the blend, I created the brand concept, and until December was employed full-time at Cloof. Having said that, my opinion is based upon a very intimate relationship with the wine. However highly regarded and experienced the people who have tasted Lynchpin in wine shows, or for wine publications, they have never spent more than a few seconds in its company.

I ask you this question: if you need a reference on a prospective employee, do you ask someone who knows them well, or the stranger who greeted them while crossing the road that morning?

I should add that this is not the style of wine that one would expect to win gold medals on wine shows, so a brief encounter in a crowded line-up may not leave the same impression as a more over-the-top wine would.

Here’s the description I wrote for the 2005 Lynchpin a few years ago:
All the taut elegance to be expected from Cabernet Franc, the tart richness of Merlot, and the take-no-prisoners power of Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel maturation took place in French Oak, of which about 75% was new, giving the wine a very classic, well-balanced tannin structure. The aftertaste lingers for a good while, ending in a lip-smacking, appetite-inducing freshness.

All of that is still true, but with the extra time in bottle the wine has also now mellowed. The balance is still fabulous, and it is truly the most gorgeous wine to drink.

The best deal available for Lynchpin is at Redblends.co.za, where you can get it – effectively for free – as part of a six-pack of Cloof blended reds. Four of the six wines in the pack were awarded Four Stars in the Platter Wine Guide (yes, the stars are the products of a brief interaction between wine and taster!). The cost of the pack – R259 – must be one of the wine industry’s great bargains, with Lynchpin playing a ‘key role’ in delivering that value.

Fun with Sex Surveys

Oscar Foulkes February 18, 2010 Uncategorized 3 comments

Sex is a rather useful activity. Apart from the role it plays in procreation, it’s also popular as a recreational pastime. And, the technologies behind both online videos and ecommerce were largely developed by/for the porn industry.

Imagine that; without smut we may still be waiting for YouTube, which means that Susan Boyle would never have become the sensation she has.

But, for all its ubiquity, when it comes to sex each of us is an island. So, researchers aggregate thousands of anonymous responses to questionnaires in assimilating some kind of perspective of where society is, as far as sex is concerned.

Health24.com has published the results of its annual sex survey, during which 10,000 people (mostly South African, one assumes) completed an online questionnaire. The method of polling would obviously have skewed the results, but they’re an interesting slice of society nonetheless.

The first bit of data that jumped out at me was a yes/no response to a question that asked whether penetration of the vagina by a penis constituted sex. Clearly, if one is doing a survey on sex it’s important to know whether everyone is on the same page (or should that be on the same bed?). Based upon a personal definition Bill Clinton was therefore able to answer that he “did not have sexual relations with that woman”. OK, some people may well debate oral ‘sex’, but surely when a penis enters a vagina, the final defence – in a manner of speaking – has been breached.

And yet an astounding 1.15% of men and 1.81% of women declared that this was not sex. If it isn’t sex, I have to ask them, then what is it?

The answers to the acceptability of buying or selling sex were predictable. An economist may express surprise, though, at women’s condemnation of the practice, considering that they are the main financial beneficiaries of such activity.

Stereotypes were once again confirmed with the question about faking orgasms, but I was more than a little surprised to find that a large percentage of men had “once or twice”, “regularly” or “sometimes” faked it. The success of this practice clearly comes down (pun unintended) to some pretty basic physical evidence. Did they get away with it, I have to wonder.

It was a relief to see that both groupings derived an equal level of enjoyment from the last time they had sex, and it was clear that a caterer was not involved in setting up the questions – there was no vegetarian option to the question involving sex with animals.

There was a series of questions where women surprisingly out-pointed men in the “sometimes” category, which made me wonder whether a further round of pre-emptive definitions was perhaps not necessary.

Maybe men and women just have a different definition of the word “sometimes”, which I suspect would also be highlighted by asking each of them whether they “sometimes” or “never” wash the dishes.


Building professional websites really easily

Oscar Foulkes February 15, 2010 My Little Black Book, Web Tools No comments

I was very excited last week to discover an amazing tool for building websites. What makes it amazing – with a capital A – is that it’s pretty much WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get).

As far as websites are concerned, WordPress has been the object of my affections. The 1000s of templates (themes, they’re called in that world) make it easy to get a reasonable-looking site up and running quite quickly. There are also 1000s of plug-ins that enable the site to do really useful things, ecommerce being one of the most obvious.

The problem arises when you need to make little tweaks to the look and feel. Then one needs to know stuff like HTML, PHP or CSS – all of which may as well be Greek. I’ve picked up some pidgen-code along the way, but I still need technical assistance if what I’m doing is slightly out of the ordinary.

Oscar’s Pleasure runs on Thesis, which is the most adaptable of the WordPress themes I’ve come across. Almost every component is customisable, which is great for people like myself. I’m very happy with my $87 purchase.

The tool I came across last week, Artisteer, enables anybody who can ‘move a mouse’ to make up their own themes for WordPress, skins for DotNetNuke (as well as the equivalents for Joomla and a variety of other content management systems – that’s CMS for short!). Every change one makes is visual (i.e. not in code), so what you see is what you get. In effect, even non-developers have almost limitless options available when setting up a new website, rather than having to remain within the confines of an existing template.

Over the past eight months, as I’ve been on my learning-by-doing voyage of web discovery, I’ve often thought how valuable such a tool would be. I think I would probably have been willing to pay a lot more than the very reasonable $129.95 for the standard edition of Artisteer.

Even a proper web developer is likely to benefit from using Artisteer to perform many of the drudge parts of the development process as a time-saving tool.

For the rest of us, it’s the equivalent of being able to whisper sweet nothings to Helen of Troy without needing to learn Greek.


The McCure for Big Macs

Oscar Foulkes February 11, 2010 My Little Black Book No comments

Travel is exhausting at the best of times. Add to that the inevitable late nights (and drinking!) with customers, which are a necessary feature of wine industry sales trips, and you have the makings of Jack being a very tired boy.

I had one such experience during my trip to Mumbai in November last year. The night before had been extremely fruitful, not to mention fun, but the following day involved a full day at a very dull trade show.

Thankfully, one of my fellow exhibitors on the South African pavilion was McNab’s, the “all day energy”, caffeine-free energy tabs. The formulation contains 36 different vitamins, minerals and herbs, spread across four tablets and a capsule, and every one of them was doing its very best to get me back on track.

McNab’s was created by Rupert McKerron in response to lassitude he experienced several years ago. He and wife Sarah, who is also involved in McNab’s, were at the show, so I got the story from source.

Each pack contains a different motivational message, which apart from being a nice touch helps to cover all the bases. If your mind is buying into the message, at the same time as your body is getting all the things your diet isn’t giving it, it adds to the certainty that McNab’s is going to help you live what Rupert calls “a Big Life”.

I am now sold on McNab’s. It’s a fantastic product that I wish I’d discovered at the beginning of my travelling days, rather than the point where my passport was about to be packed away.

Hiking the Garden Route beaches

Oscar Foulkes February 5, 2010 My Little Black Book No comments

I have fond memories of time spent along various parts of the Garden Route. Two of these – cycling the red route in Harkerville forest and golf at Pezula – are almost in the realm of spiritual experiences. To these I can add the Coastal Trail, led by Mark Dixon of Garden Route Trail, which starts in Wildnerness and finishes in Brenton-On-Sea.

The majority of the hike follows the coast, with inland excursions into the forest, as well as some canoeing on the Touw and Goukamma rivers. What makes the coastline unique is the presence of South Africa’s highest fossilised vegetated dunes. These dunes are up to two million years old and record a substantial degree of fluctuation in sea levels – there are even some dunes two miles out to sea!

The trail is usually planned around the tides to make the walking easier. However, this hike had been booked to coincide with a friend’s significant birthday, so much of the walking was done at high tide. Apart from the hard slog through soft sand we also had some adrenaline-rich clambering over rocks amid crashing waves.

Walking gives one the opportunity to observe surroundings at a much slower pace. There was also plenty of time for Mark to share his passion and extensive knowledge of the plants, animals and geology we passed (he holds a Masters degree in Icthyology and Fishery Science and is also a Reiki Master, so has a broad base on knowledge on which to draw).

Walking along the beach brings one face to face with the way in which we humans are screwing up our environment. Plastic, in various forms, was ever-present. Possibly the most idiotic littering was perpetrated by shore anglers. They rely on the health of the ocean for their catch, and yet they happily leave empty bait boxes, plastic wrapping and cigarette packets on the beach.

It is Mark’s view that these anglers have contributed to the proliferation of the small shark species that eat fish eggs. It is perhaps inevitable that they would catch the medium-sized and larger shark species, which are the predators of the smaller species. Due to their irritation at not catching a ‘proper’ fish they kill the sharks for the hell of it, perhaps selling the fins to black market traders. The population of smaller sharks then grows, which means that more fish eggs get eaten. Hence fewer fish can be hatched.

We picked up several other interesting snippets. The diet of the elusive Knysna ‘forest’ elephants comprises something like 120 species, of which Fynbos varieties make up the majority. The implication of this is that the elephants spend much less time in the forest than has been believed. In fact, they largely forage outside the forest, and probably only use the forest for shelter. In his downtime Mark looks for elephants, but hasn’t managed to get closer than fresh spoor and the eery feeling of being watched.

Walking through a forest of centuries’ old Milkwood trees – their trunks and branches twisting every which way – was a particular treat.

In addition to being our super-knowledgeable guide, Mark not only cooked our evening meals, but also made the yummy sandwiches and crunchies (or muffins) that went into our lunch packs. Not content to be the jack of all these trades, the chickpea and alfalfa sprouts were also part of Mark’s labour.

As a mountain biker I get out quite a lot, but it’s not the same as five days of hiking along the beach and through forests. This was a fantastic experience; one that I look forward to repeating, and which I wholeheartedly recommend.

Vegetarian dish takes centre-stage at Vaudeville

Oscar Foulkes February 3, 2010 Uncategorized 2 comments

IMG_2820I sometimes think that vegetarians get a rough deal. Unless you’re somewhere like India, it can be difficult to find interesting/thoughtful/tasty vegetarian food. Let’s face it, the world is set up around the preferences of people that regard a meal as falling a long way short if it doesn’t have at least 200 grams of some kind of flesh.

Generally speaking, chefs also get a lot more excited about cooking the perfect piece of fish, meat or foie gras than they do about a fabulous stir-fry of chickpeas with spinach, olive tapenade and NoMU’s Moroccan Rub (I’ll never forget Mr Pinocho’s delicious example in Barcelona’s Boqueria Market). Most of the time the kitchen takes the view that it’s a vegetarian meal as long as it IMG_2805doesn’t contain any flesh.

I wonder how many times vegetarians have had to make do with a meal – and probably even pay full price for it – that comprised only the vegetables that accompanied the meal prepared for the non-veggies.

Professional kitchens are famous for the ire inspired by non-regular orders (I have to admit to the use of expletives on occasion, especially when being told – in the final moments before service – of a garlic intolerance).

Through my marital connection to Dish Food & Social, the caterer contracted to Cape Town’s burlesque supper club, Vaudeville, I have been involved in planning the February/March menu (it runs IMG_2810from mid-month to mid-month). The starter comprises a mezze platter, fresh sourdough ciabatta and generous salad. Main course is a choice of a meat, fish or vegetarian dish, and dessert is the same for everyone.

One of our major constraints is that the plated main course has to be served to +-250 people in 10 to 15 minutes, so there’s a limit to how complex we can get.

Vegetarians – neglected for so long – really do have something to look forward to on the next menu (not that they haven’t in the past). The accompanying pictures are of rosa tomatoes that I wood-roasted with a hint of chilli in preparation for today’s menu tasting with Vaudeville’s management team. They (the tomatoes, not the managers) get a lovely smokey flavour in the wood oven, and the juices are concentrated by the cooking process. We add these to wilted spinach, crunchy greens, lemon zest, ripped basil and shavings of fresh parmesan, and then toss them with freshly drained penne.

It’s a dish with bags of flavour, a nice contrast of textures, and the spectrum of colours makes it really easy on the eye.

It may well be hyperbolic – if not immodest – to suggest that more people would be vegetarian (if only for part of the week) if dishes like this were widely available. But one thing’s for certain; at least as much love has gone into this dish as any of the others on the menu.

So, get to Vaudeville for a great show … and food to match!


A New Kind of Middleman

Oscar Foulkes January 20, 2010 Uncategorized 2 comments

As a kid growing up in a farming community I often heard talk of “middlemen”; usually in scornful reference to the perception that they inflate prices at the expense of the farmer.

The first rule of The Market is that the entity closest to the consumer gets the biggest chunk of the margin. Hence retailers may take 30%, distributors 20%, and so on. An obvious difference is Apple, which not only controls the retail prices of its products, but also is held in such esteem by consumers that it dictates to its intermediaries what (slim) margin they will get.

On a continuum from source to market, farmers are – by definition – a long way away from the consumer, both physically and conceptually. Perhaps my fascination with marketing has its roots in those early experiences; certainly, the work I’ve done in the wine industry has been aimed at closing that gap (with the internet being an obvious tool).

The private labels I developed as a retailer gave consumers the price benefit of products that didn’t have the cost of a distribution channel built into the margin. I think they also got damn fine wines, as evidenced by the number of times that Mystery wines topped either Wine magazine or Wine-of-the-Month Club tastings.

The work I’ve done at Cloof has been focused on shaping products and brands that are sufficiently interesting to consumers that they are able to cut through the clutter in the marketplace. An analogy that springs to mind is the contrasting visibility of a lighthouse on a dark night, and an individual penguin in the middle of a colony of thousands.

So, here I am (voluntarily unemployed) at the start of 2010, getting ready to apply my wild card-type thinking to product development, branding and marketing, with an holistic view of the entire business – numbers and all.

I’m calling my new venture Slingshot Brand Equity. While creative input may comprise a small part of the enterprise effort, it can have a disproportionate effect on the success of the business, over a long period of time. Apart from this amplification effect, brands themselves catapult businesses into another sphere.

Finally, business is about the numbers – if there’s no profit there’s no business. As far as is possible I’m simultaneously creative and analytical.

Clearly, at Cloof I had the opportunity of shaping the entire business from the ground up. Initial projects I’m involved in cover a variety of practical applications, sometimes affecting just one area of a business. I’m happy to look at almost anything, because it’s a great way to get exposed to new territory.

One of the things I’ve struggled with most of all over the past month as I’ve formulated my plan, has been the really important thing of a simple definition of the benefit my partners/clients will get from me. This has really bugged me, because if I can’t do it for myself, how can I do it for someone else?

So, here it is: I shape brands and bring them closer to consumers.

It’s very simplistic, because my eyes are on a lot of balls while I’m doing it, but that’s the end result of my efforts.

It’s a role that may not make me that different to the “middlemen” so derided by the farmers of my childhood, but it’s one I passionately love.