Solace in wine experiences
During a training ride in preparation for the 2019 Cape Epic, we rode from Grabouw, through the Elgin Valley, and up to Iona on Highlands Road. It’s a gravel road, so the traction of our tyres spoke volumes for the soil and rocks that make up this landscape. I could show you pictures, but there’s nothing like pedalling a mountain bike up a hill (or mountain) to bring that topography to life.
Terroir cannot be a theoretical or academic concept when your entire body is wrestling against gravity, heat, wind and soil.
Iona is at the top of a ridge that runs roughly east-west. To the south is the Bot River estuary and the Atlantic Ocean. To the north is the Elgin Valley. The attraction for making wine here is that summer’s prevailing southerly wind brings cool air off the ocean, sending it soaring to nearly 500m above sea level, where it chills the vineyards.
The vineyards occupy a block of land that a previous landowner managed to keep in private ownership when the majority of the farm was expropriated for the Kogelberg Nature Reserve.
These cool-climate vineyards – mostly chardonnay and sauvignon blanc – produce fruit with restrained fruitiness and firm acidity. Iona is famous for these wines.
However, they also own vineyards on the north-facing slopes inside the valley. This is the source of the syrah (shiraz) grapes for a wine they call Solace. It’s an elegant, finely structured wine and one can’t really understand it until you’ve experienced the physical difference between this vineyard and the ones that deliver the estate’s flagship whites.
There is also a story to be told about the difference between syrahs grown all around the Western Cape and, indeed, between the various red varieties grown in Elgin.
It takes years of drinking/tasting to develop the ‘palate’ and points of reference that enable us to tune into those stories, especially when we climb the ladder from regional to international excellence. Can we make sense of a R400 syrah that is already a leap from the sub-R100 supermarket bottle? What of the jump to a R2000 example from the Northern Rhône, or a rare single vineyard wine at many multiples of that.
I’m one of many people worldwide who are drinking less, which is cumulatively leading to a big financial hit for the large drinks companies. If alcopops and other drinks that are associated with mindless inebriation are the ones that bear the brunt, good riddance.
It would be a shame, though, if reduced consumption were to impact on the production of delicious wines that tell unique stories. The same could be said for a variety of non-industrial drinks, whether they are whisky, brandy, sherry or others.
It’s all very well for me to dip in moderately when it suits me. After all, my knowledge has been built. What of young people who drink so little that they may never reach a state of sentient sipping?
The 2021 Iona Solace I opened last night was quite oxidative, the result of a faulty cork (not the same as the TCA taint that is randomly caused by corks). The second bottle I opened was in perfect condition and we thoroughly enjoyed sipping our way through most of it.
Unfortunately, faulty corks – and their effect on wine – are part of the wine story. It’s a shame that wine knowledge has to be applied in spotting faulty bottles.
MTB trails crisscross the Western Cape, generally in close proximity to vineyards. During each of our three Cape Epics, as we wound down in preparation for dinner, we drank our way through a wine list representing some of our favourite wines made along each day’s route. I’m not sure if the wine makes the route, or vice versa, but doing it this way was a great way of maximising the experience.
It certainly made it physical on multiple levels. Wine is a direct expression of the landscape and climate in which it is grown. It cannot be made to formula in a laboratory or, God forbid, 3-D printed by AI. Engaging with wine roots us in values and attitudes that are centuries old.
Cheers to that!





